DIY Tote Bag with Recessed Zipper
Tote bag sewing pattern featuring a recessed zipper closure and outside slip pocket.
I created this large tote bag with recessed zipper to use for yarn, light travel, or craft supplies. So many uses! The assembly of this tote bag is similar to the simple tote bag pattern only a zipper has been added plus an outside slip pocket.
The finished recessed zipper tote bag is approximately 18″W x 13″H x 5″D.
If you like sewing bags as much as I do, try the vinyl bottom tote bag with grommets for the straps. This bag is perfect as an everyday purse!
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***You can find the AD-FREE, printable PDF version of this sewing tutorial available for purchase in my Etsy shop HERE. Includes 21 pages of step-by-step instructions with pictures. Print a copy to keep next to your sewing machine for easy reference.***
Zipper tote bag supplies needed:
Outer fabric pieces:
- 2 – 19.5″W x 16″H – my favorite fabric shop
- 2 – 19.5″W x 2.5″H for the recessed zipper
- 2 – 10″W x 11″H for the outside pocket
Lining fabric pieces:
- 2 – 19.5″W x 14.5″H
- 2 – 5″W x 29″H for the straps
- 4 – 2.5″W x 16″H for the accent strips
Other supplies needed:
- Cutting mat
- Rotary cutter
- Clear ruler
- Foam stabilizer – ByAnnie’s Soft and Stable
- Fusible interfacing – Pellon P44F Fusible Interfacing
- 18″ zipper – my favorite zipper shop
- Straight pins or sewing clips
- Marking pencil
- Sewing scissors
- Sewing machine
Measure and cut your fabric
Using your cutting mat, clear ruler, and rotary cutter, from the outer fabric cut two pieces measuring 19.5″W x 16″H, two pieces measuring 19.5″W x 2.5″H for the recessed zipper, and two pieces measuring 10″W x 11″H for the outside pocket.
From the lining fabric cut two pieces measuring 19.5″W x 14.5″H, two pieces measuring 5″W x 29″H for the straps, and four pieces measuring 2.5″W x 16″H for the accent strips.
Attach the interfacing
My go to interfacing is Pellon P44f Fusible Interfacing but any lightweight fusible interfacing will work. The interfacing provides more durability.
You are going to attach the interfacing to the wrong side of all the outer fabric pieces and all the lining fabric pieces except the 2.5″ x 16″ accent strips. Attach the interfacing following the package instructions.
Make the straps
The finished straps will be 1.25″ wide.
RULE OF THUMB: Decide how wide you would like your finished straps to be, then multiply by 4 and that will be how wide you will need to cut your fabric. For this tote bag, 1.25-inches wide means I need to cut the fabric 5 inches wide before folding.
Place one of the straps face down on your ironing board. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Follow these instructions on how to make your own mini ironing board.
Open the strap back up and fold the outside edge to the center fold you just made and press.
Turn the strap around and repeat with the other outside edge and press.
Fold the strap in half again and press.
Sew along each side lengthwise using 1/4″ seam allowance.
Repeat these steps with the other strap.
The above picture shows the sewn straps.
Make the front pocket
Place the pocket pieces (10″W x 11″H pieces) right sides together. Pin the top and bottom to hold in place.
Sew along the top and bottom of the bag front pocket using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Turn right side out and press the seams.
Top stitch along the top of the pocket only.
Sew the pocket to the tote bag
Now you are going to sew the pocket to the front fabric piece of the tote bag.
Find the middle of both the outer front fabric piece and the pocket piece. You can do this by folding both in half lengthwise and press the fold with your fingers.
Place the pocket on top of the front fabric piece in the center 3-inches from the bottom, lining up the creases to ensure the pocket is in the middle. Pin to hold in place.
Sew along the sides and bottom using a 1/4″ seam allowance, pivoting the corners.
Make the accent strips
Place one of the accent strips wrong side up on your ironing board.
Fold each long edge to the center and press.
Repeat with the other three accent strips.
The finished accent strips are 1.25″ wide – the same width as the zipper tote bag straps.
Placement of the accent strips
You are now going to sew the accent strips to the outer fabric pieces of the tote bag. The accent strips will look like extensions of the bag straps.
Place two of the fabric accent strips, each inside edge of the strip 5.25″ (top and bottom of the strip) from each edge of the front outer fabric piece (the piece with the pocket). The accent strips will cover the unfinished edges of the pocket. Pin the accent strips to hold in place.
Sew along each edge of the strips using 1/8″ seam allowance.
Repeat with the other two accent strips and outer fabric piece.
Baste the foam stabilizer
Now you are going to baste the foam stabilizer to each outer fabric piece. Cut two pieces of foam stabilizer each measuring 19.5″W x 16″H.
Place one of the outer fabric pieces on top of one the foam stabilizer pieces, right side up. Pin to hold in place.
Baste the stabilizer all the way around using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Repeat with the other outer fabric piece.
***You can find the AD-FREE, printable PDF version of this sewing tutorial available for purchase in my Etsy shop HERE. Includes 21 pages of step-by-step instructions with pictures. Print a copy to keep next to your sewing machine for easy reference.***
Add the recessed zipper
The zipper I’m using is 18″ with a long zipper pull. If you are using a zipper longer than 18 inches and want to shorten it before sewing, follow these instructions on how to shorten a zipper.
RULE OF THUMB: The zipper is measured from the top metal stop to the bottom metal stop. The width of your fabric should be 1.5 inches wider than the length of your zipper.
Place the zipper, right side up, on top of one of the lining fabric pieces, also right side up.
Then, place one of the 19.5″ x 2.5″ fabric pieces, right side down, on top of the zipper. Pin to hold in place. The zipper should be sandwiched in between the fabric pieces, right sides together.
Be sure the upper thread matches the outer fabric and the bobbin thread matches the lining fabric.
Before sewing the zipper, open the zipper up about an inch – this will help with a smooth line of sewing.
Use your zipper foot for sewing the zipper. Begin sewing the zipper, then when you get to the place almost to the zipper pull, with the needle down, lift the zipper foot and move the zipper pull back to the top. Then lower the foot and continue sewing.
Top stitch along the zipper – be sure the corners and edges are lined up. This gives the tote bag a finished look and keeps the fabric from getting caught in the zipper.
Repeat with other side of the zipper
Now place the zipper, right side up. on top of the other lining fabric piece.
Place the other 19.5″ x 2.5″ fabric piece on top of the zipper right side down.
Sew the zipper – repeating the same process of opening and closing the zipper to sew a smooth line.
Top stitch again along the zipper.
Baste the straps
Place each end of the strap on top of the accent strips on the outer fabric pieces, lining up the straps with the accents.
Baste the strap to the to the outer fabric pieces.
The above picture shows what the basted strap should look like at this point.
Cut the bottom squares
You are going to cut 2.5-inch squares at each bottom corner of the outer fabric pieces.
Using your clear ruler and marking pencil, mark a 2.5″ square at each bottom corner.
Cut the squares along the marked lines using your sewing scissors.
You’ll be cutting the bottom squares for the lining pieces in the next step.
Sew the bags together
Starting with the outer fabric pieces, place the fabric pieces right sides together. Pin or clip to hold in place.
Sew along the sides and bottom (not the squares) using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Pinch each square together, lining up the seams.
Sew along the edge using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
The bottom of the tote bag is now 5-inches.
RULE OF THUMB: The finished bottom width of the tote bag is going to be two times the width of the squares you cut. For this bag, the squares are 2.5-inches which makes the finished bottom width 5 inches. For a 4-inch wide bottom, you’ll cut the squares 2-inches wide.
Repeat these steps with the lining fabric pieces. NOTE: When sewing the lining fabric pieces together, pinch the zipper so the teeth are facing out. And leave an opening at the bottom for turning.
Cut the bottom 2.5” squares of the lining. I found it easier to cut the bottom 2.5″ squares after the lining pieces are sewn together.
You now have one outer bag and one lining bag.
Assemble the recessed zipper tote bag
Open the zipper all the way.
With the lining inside out and the outer bag right side out, place the outer bag inside the lining bag. The right sides of the fabric should be facing each other and the straps should be in between the bags.
Line up the seams and pin all around the top of the tote bag.
Sew around the top of the tote bag using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Sew over the straps a couple of times for extra durability.
Turn right side out
Through the bottom opening in the lining, turn the tote bag right side out.
Fold in the bottom opening in the lining and press. Sew the opening closed using a 1/8″ seam allowance.
Push the lining inside the outer bag and press.
Top stitch around the top of the bag – I put clips around the top to make it easier. Be sure the straps are up so you don’t top stitch over them. Press again.
***You can find the AD-FREE, printable PDF version of this sewing tutorial available for purchase in my Etsy shop HERE. Includes 21 pages of step-by-step instructions with pictures. Print a copy to keep next to your sewing machine for easy reference.***
Pin for later!
You are finished!
I hope you enjoyed this DIY tote bag with recessed zipper! This large tote bag is perfect for craft projects, overnight trips, and so much more! Happy sewing!
Other zipper sewing projects:
- How to Sew a Zipper Makeup Bag with Straps
- Belt Bag Sewing Tutorial
- Simple Wristlet Purse Sewing Pattern
- Small Sling Bag with Zipper Closure